Young Native Artisans Injecting Fresh Energy into the Skye's Culinary Landscape
Against the backdrop of its striking, craggy mountain vista, winding roads and constantly shifting weather, the Isle of Skye has always drawn adventure seekers. In recent years, though, the most expansive island in the Inner Hebrides has been attracting visitors for other reasons – its dynamic food and drink scene. Leading the way are young Sgitheanach (local residents) with a worldly view but a dedication to regional, environmentally conscious ingredients. This is also driven by an active community keen to create quality, all-season jobs that encourage young people on the island.
A Passion for Local Produce
Calum Montgomery is Skye born and bred, and he’s deeply committed to showcasing the island’s larder on his menus. “When visitors arrive on Skye I want them to appreciate the natural beauty, but also the excellence of our ingredients,” he says. “The local seafood including mussels, lobster, scallops and crab are the best available.” He honors tradition: “It holds great significance for me to use the identical products as my ancestors. My granddad was a fisherman who caught lobster and we’re experiencing crustaceans from the same stretch of water, with the same respect for ingredients.”
The chef's A Taste of Skye menu displays the travel distance his ingredients has travelled. Visitors can enjoy plump scallops hand-dived in Loch Greshornish (direct from the source), and creel-caught lobster from the island's capital (a short distance) with vegetables, wild herbs and blossoms from the garden from the on-site garden and seashore (locally sourced). The relationship to produce and producers is crucial. “Recently I took a young chef out with a diver harvesting scallops so he could learn what they do. We prepared scallops straight from the water and ate them raw with a squeeze of lemon. ‘I've never tasted a better scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. It is this experience that we want to bring to the restaurant.”
Gastronomic Pioneers
Journeying south, in the majesty of the mighty Cuillin mountains, a further food representative for Skye, a passionate local chef, manages a well-loved café. Recently she showcased Scottish cuisine at a prestigious international food event, offering shellfish buns with Scotch-flavored spread, and traditional Scottish fusion. She first started her café in a different city. Returning home to Skye in recent years, a short-term residencies proved there was a audience here too.
During a meal featuring a specialty drink and mouthwatering blood orange-cured trout, she shares: “I’m really proud that I opened in a major city, but I found it challenging to achieve what I can do here. Sourcing fresh ingredients was a huge mission, but here the scallops come directly from the water to my door. My shellfish supplier only speaks to me in the traditional tongue.” Her love for Skye’s offerings, community and scenery is clear across her colourful, innovative dishes, all filled with regional tastes, with a hint of local culture. “The link to the island's heritage and dialect is incredibly significant,” she says. Guests can use informative placemats on the tables to pick up a few words while they eat.
Several locals worked elsewhere. We observed the produce arrive a long way from where it was landed, and it’s nowhere near the same quality
Honoring Heritage with Creativity
Long-running dining establishments are continuing to evolve. A charming inn managed by a prominent islander in her family’s ancestral home has long been a foodie destination. The owner's mother publishes celebrated books on Scottish cookery.
The culinary team regularly introduces new ideas, with a energetic young team led by an experienced head chef. When they’re away from the stoves the chefs grow seasonings and flavorings in the hotel glasshouse, and gather for edible weeds in the grounds and coastal plants like sea aster and scurvygrass from the coast of a nearby loch. In the harvest season they pursue woodland routes to find fungi in the woods.
Guests can feast on island-harvested shellfish, leafy vegetables and nuts in a delicious dashi; Shetland cod with Scottish asparagus, and house-smoked lobster. The hotel’s nature expert accompanies visitors for activities including wild food gathering and fishing. “Guests are very interested for immersive activities from our visitors,” says the hotel representative. “Guests are eager to come and deeply experience the island and the natural environment.”
Beyond the Kitchen
The whisky industry is also contributing to keep the younger generation on Skye, in jobs that continue outside the summer period. An operations manager at a local distillery explains: “The fish farm was a big employer in the past, but now the majority of positions are handled by machines. Property costs have risen so much it’s more difficult for the youth to remain. The distilling business has become a vitally significant employer.”
“Distillers wanted, no experience necessary” was the announcement that a recently graduated local woman noticed in her local paper, securing her employment at the distillery. “I decided to try,” she says, “I never thought I’d get a role in manufacturing, but it was a long-held aspiration.” The distiller had an curiosity about whisky, but no relevant qualifications. “The chance to learn on the job and study digitally was amazing.” Currently she is a key team member, guiding apprentices, and has developed her personal blend using a distinctive ingredient, which is developing in oak when observed. In different facilities, that’s an honor usually reserved for retiring distillers. The tour facility and coffee shop hire many people from around the surrounding area. “We integrate with the community because we welcomed the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital