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Reflected back at me, I can see myself in huge golden pantaloons, perceptible only to me. Kids sit in a rock pool imitating mermaids, meanwhile nearby resides a talking pea in a display case, beside a imposing mound of cushions. It represents the universe of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), a leading 19th century’s highly cherished writers. I'm visiting Odense, located on the island of Fyn in the southern part of Denmark, to discover the author's enduring legacy in his birthplace many decades after his passing, and to experience a handful of enchanted tales of my own.

The Cultural Center: The Andersen Museum

HC Andersens Hus is the local museum dedicated to the writer, including his original residence. A museum representative notes that in earlier iterations of the museum there was scant attention on the author's tales. Andersen's biography was explored, but The Little Mermaid were nowhere to be found. For tourists who travel to the city seeking fairytale wonder, it was a little lacking.

The renovation of Odense city centre, rerouting a major road, created the chance to reimagine how the renowned native could be celebrated. An international design contest gave the architects from Japan the Kengo Kuma team the project, with the innovative curatorial vision at the core of the design. The distinctive wood-paneled museum with connected curving spaces debuted to much acclaim in 2021. “We’ve tried to design an environment where we move beyond simply describing the writer, but we communicate similarly to the storyteller: with wit, sarcasm and viewpoint,” says the expert. The outdoor spaces take this approach: “It’s a garden for wanderers and for large beings, it's created to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he explains, a challenge achieved by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with verticality, size and numerous twisting trails in a surprisingly compact space.

The Writer's Legacy

Andersen wrote multiple personal accounts and often provided conflicting accounts. HC Andersens Hus adopts this philosophy seriously; often the opinions of his acquaintances or snippets of correspondence are shown to politely doubt the author’s own version of incidents. “The writer is the narrator, but his account isn't always accurate,” notes the curator. The result is a compelling swift exploration of Andersen’s life and art, thinking patterns and favorite narratives. It’s stimulating and playful, for mature visitors and youngsters, with a extra underground make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the youngest visitors.

Discovering the City

Back in the real world, the modest urban center of the municipality is picturesque, with cobbled streets and old wooden houses colored in vibrant hues. The writer's influence is all around: the traffic lights display the storyteller with his signature formal headwear, bronze footmarks offer a no-cost Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Annually in August this commitment reaches its height with the annual storytelling event, which honors the his influence through visual arts, dance, theatre and melodies.

This year, the multi-day festival had 500 shows, the majority were complimentary. During my time in the city, I come across painted stilt-walkers, fantastical beings and an author double sharing tales. I experience contemporary performances and see an amazing nocturnal display with athletic artists lowering from the town hall and hanging from a mechanical arm. Upcoming events this year are presentations, hands-on activities and, broadening the narrative tradition beyond Andersen, the city’s yearly enchantment celebration.

All good magical places require a palace, and Fyn contains over a hundred manors and manor houses throughout the region

Cycling and Exploration

As in most of Denmark, bikes are the best way to get about in this town and a “bicycle route” curves through the urban core. From my accommodation, I ride to the public waterside bathing area, then beyond the city for a route around the nearby islet, a compact territory connected by causeway to the mainland. Town dwellers picnic here following their day, or appreciate a quiet hour catching fish, paddleboarding or bathing.

Back in the city, I visit a local eatery, where the menu is derived from author-inspired concepts and narratives. The verse Denmark, My Native Land is featured at the restaurant, and owner the restaurateur recites passages, rendered in English, as he serves every dish. It’s an experience repeated often in my visit, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it feels as though narrating is constantly offered here.

Historic Estate Tours

Every excellent enchanted locations deserve a castle, and the island boasts numerous historic homes and manor houses across the island. Taking day trips from Odense, I tour Egeskov Castle, Europe’s finely maintained moated palace. While much of it are open to visitors, Egeskov is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his wife, the royal resident. I wonder if she can feel a small legume through a mound of {mattresses